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Neither here nor there

 

It is nearly five months since I returned from Melbourne, my native city. Long resident in the Peloponnese, Greece, I had not been Down Under for five years. My long-ago settling in Greece had been very unexpected, not my idea at all, but my numerous trips back to Australia have also been unexpected: I’ve been very lucky to have had so many.

This most recent trip, however, was different, for you reach a certain stage at which life starts to speed up and time starts to gallop, and I’m at that stage now. When you are away, separated from the past and from loved people, particularly at first, you do your best to fool yourself that places, people, their customs and opinions, all the things you have in common, remain the same. But it is just not so. In an uncertain world, perhaps the one certainty is that of change, a notion that reminds me of David Malouf’s idea that we are all exiles, even those of us who never leave home, for this is the effect that the passing of time has: familiar worlds become strange no matter where we are.

The most significant and wounding change involves loss. My parents and their generation are all dead, and so is my (younger) sister. A friend died just days before I arrived in Melbourne, and another friend died shortly after I returned to Greece. As time passes, our ageing and faulty genes catch up with us: the failing health of many people came as a shock to me, for I had not been present to see the deterioration begin. Such deterioration made me remember my grannies and their regular exhortation to count my blessings. Which are many. So I’m busily counting, even as I wonder what is happening there while I am here.

Of course there are other forms of loss. I cannot be restored to my brother and my cousins in the same old way, even though I remember times past very well, and often think of the road not taken, that one that would have kept me in the land of the known and familiar. The whole matter of other roads and worlds and consequent homesickness preoccupies all sorts of people. Like writers. Paul Scott made one of his characters say that the migrant is always tapping at the window of his past. Kate Morton has written that home is a sense of being complete, that the opposite of home is not away but lonely.

And different cultures have their own labels. In Portuguese, saudade, based on the word for solitude, means a longing for a place or person that is absent, and includes the idea of a love that remains. In Brazil there is even a Day of Saudade. The Welsh have the concept of hiraeth, which means a feeling of deep yearning, especially for one’s home. In Greek the idea is expressed in nostalgia, which word has acquired a wider meaning in English, in that it can mean a longing for former times rather than places. The list of such words is probably almost endless.

Of course the saudade/hiraeth/nostalgia differs from person to person. Australian actor Cate Blanchett considers Australia a magnetic place, and has mentioned its sounds, shadows and shapes. A Czech friend of mine, who has not lived in the republic for forty years, remembers the scents of her native land. (When she told me this, I recalled the reaction of Charmian Clift and George Johnston when somebody burned gum leaves under their noses.) Then there’s the shorthand of conversation that becomes automatic when you are in your place of origin. And the old recurring question Remember when…? Along with its various answers.

For me the yearning, which never quite goes away, comprises many things, including landscape. I’ve known a variety, from the edge of Victoria’s Little Desert to the grandeur of the Great Ocean Road and the well-remembered bush. Not to mention one or two rivers. And every time I am back I think that this is what I grew up in, this is what I know. I mentioned this notion to a friend with a rare literary sensibility, and she immediately referred me to Judith Wright’s Train Journey, in which a passenger, the first-person narrator, looks on the view from the night train and thinks of it as the country that built her heart.

On the other side of the world the Irish poet Derek Mahon asked the compelling question: How can we not love the first life we knew?

How not, indeed?

 

 


Gillian Bouras is an expatriate Australian writer who has written several books, stories and articles, many of them dealing with her experiences as an Australian woman in Greece.

Main image: Chris Johnston illustration.

Topic tags: Gillian Bouras, Travel, Expat, Melbourne, Greece, Home, Nostalgia, Exile

 

 

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Existing comments

A lovely piece, Gillian. It’s such a shame that your trip was clouded with loss, but I hope that catching up with others and meeting new people brought comfort. Certainly you evoke the sights, sounds and smells that bring memories flooding back as well as pleasure from experiencing them anew.


Juliet | 22 August 2024  

Nostalgia can be wonderful. Having been brought up in East Africa (Tanganyika as it was, Uganda and schooled in Kenya) I went back after more than forty years to Nairobi and Kampala to do some work. Both cities were bigger, more crowded and busier than I remembered yet I felt at home wherever I went. Some of my Swahili came back almost involuntarily. I felt no concern about safety, even when my work companion (a Liberian) pointed out that I was the only white person on a major Nairobi street. (It was amusing that I was the one of us who could speak the language). The only small exception was the church in Nairobi that I attended for years as a pupil at a Catholic boarding school. It now seemed smaller!


Joe | 22 August 2024  

It's over 50 years since I was last in India - arriving here just two days ago. A sleek and vast airport - a twin to so many others scattered around the world. Agents with cards announcing this or that travel company or passenger being sought. Our exit was easy - our little group gathered together and whisked off to our hotel. Two days have passed - Delhi - a Sikh and a Hindu temple and a vast Muslim mosque - India Gate and War Memorial and Lutyens & Baker's 1911 government centre. And to-day - the drive along a just recently completed four lanes each side of a highway from New Delhi to Jaipur - and a late afternoon evening visit to nearby Amer (or Amber) and its stunningly magnificent castle/palace. The others in the group are Australians, New Zealanders - one born in London - others with children and grand-children scattered around the globe - most of us of an age - and the conversation flows around the idea of then and now - and yes, exactly as your write GB - of that different country we inhabited 50-60+ years ago. I'm struck by the modernity of India - the changes that have taken place here while noting that others in the group keep seeing India through the lens of 60+ years ago. One woman sees it as her mission to feed the the dogs imagining them starving - which placid and well-fed they definitely are not. Others tut-tut about other imaginings lingering from British Raj days - while our brilliant guide explains about religion (Hindu, Muslim, Sikh, Jain) about colonialism - finding common ground while making other differences better understood. I am reflecting on all my years of travel and of living abroad and of the changes which have taken place.The passing of loved ones, the passing of time - of memories, nostalgia - and yes - the galloping of the years... I know I've gone of on a tangent of sorts, GB - but your essays are always springboards... Thank-you.


Jim Kable | 23 August 2024  

All the sights, sounds and smells, how the people in the street looked and behaved and what life was like 60 years ago all came pleasantly into my mind while reading Gillian's article. I live less than 30 km from the street where I grew up and have definitely not had a migrant experience but the streets of Geelong 2024 though familiar sometimes seem quite alien when I recall Geelong 1964. While my memory remains reasonably intact I can still travel back. Thanks for another thought provoking article.


Stephen | 25 August 2024  

Thank you Gillian for another chance to follow your thoughts. Our recent election in the UK used the concept of change to secure a win against the incumbents, often implying that the opposite of change was stagnation and corruption. A recent quote from my listening to many wise authors at the Edinburgh Book Festival came to mind ‘what good is a mind if you don’t change it’.
As we get older I think we do want the certainty of some things staying the same but they seldom do. If the past is the foreign country that L P Hartley stated; how rewarding it was to live there.
Home coming is an emotional experience but for me this usually involves people. Although we may change as we age there is some sense that we become more of what we are and what made us. So let us enjoy the gift of still being here and maybe also enjoying seeing ourselves as others see us in the hope we improve like fine wine.


Maggie | 26 August 2024  


Gillian You have a stronger love/memory of your birth country than I have though I was born in Australia long long ago. My memories have become dulled/muddled and I n longer yearn for the smell of burning gum leaves ! B ut thank you for the reminder. Meriel.


Meriel Wilmot-Wright | 07 September 2024  

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