Democracy without independence. In elections, the opposition candidates vote for the incumbent government. These are just a couple of ways to describe the power structure in Uzbekistan; a country sandwiched between communist China and the arguably democratic Russia.
Located in the heart of Central Asia, Uzbekistan traces the route Ancient Silk Road traders once used to carry goods from the Roman Empire to the Orient. These same historically marvelled bazaars are now the sites of terrorist bombings and social uprisings. The majestic cities of Bukhara and Samarkand—once famed for their architectural magnificence—are now the holding place for American troops occupying Afghanistan, which lies just over the southern border.
The former Soviet State of Uzbekistan remains, as it was prior to the rise of communist Russia, largely unexplored terrain. News from the self-declared ‘democratic state’ rarely makes headlines. The capital, Tashkent, is a buzzing metropolis with a mixture of largely unfinished Soviet and Western architecture. The end result is a Gotham City-style urban landscape with searing grey city blocks and dimly lit streets. Yet at the same time, the cities are dotted with ornate turquoise and pearl coloured mosques and temples. Travel to the region is difficult for Westerners, as the government likes its travellers—as Lonely Planet describes—in the form of ‘pre-programmed, obedient pods’.
You get the feeling there is something to hide in Uzbekistan.
The republic is led by President Islam Karimov. There are five legal political parties, all of which publicly support Karimov, a former communist who has held power since just before the 1991 Soviet collapse.
In the early 1990s, Karimov outlawed the main opposition parties and forced their leaders into exile. As was the case with Chairman Mao in China, this was not uncommon during the communist era. However, since 1991, the Eurasia region has seen a massive restructure of borders, leaders and political systems. But 14 years on, nothing much has changed in Uzbekistan. In December, 2004, Uzbeks went to the polls for a presidential election where the only opposition standing against Karimov withdrew from the race two months before the election. As NewsObserver reported, ‘election officials have refused to let opposition parties run on the ballot, disqualifying their registrations on technicalities’.
Politics is not the stuff of dinner conversation in Uzbekistan. Chatter about political opinion or the local economy is met with downcast eyes and monosyllabic responses. According to one Bukhara man, individual names are required on