A heated dispute arose in Egypt late last year following comments by the Culture Minister, Farouk Hosni, that the rising number of Egyptian women wearing the Islamic headscarf or hijab was a "regressive" trend. He told the Egyptian independent daily, Al Masri al Youm, "There was an age when our mothers went to university and worked without the veil. It is that spirit we grew up with. So why this regression?"
As the Culture Minister for eighteen years, Farouk's comments were contentious, particularly given that an estimated 80% of Egyptian women wear some form of Islamic dress. The comments sparked outrage amongst Muslim conservatives.
Representatives of his own party took issue with him, while the largest opposition bloc, the Muslim Brotherhood, demanded his resignation. Farouk was made to appear before two parliamentary committees to 'clarify' his position. As students took to the streets in protest, the religious establishment denounced his comments as an insult to religious leaders.
Mr Hosni defended his comments, saying they "represented no more than a personal opinion", having "nothing whatsoever to do with religion" acting out of self-interest and reacting as they had to secure political gains.
What is particularly significant about the dispute is that it highlights the growth of conservative Islamic practices in Egypt. This growth is also occurring in the wider region, and among Muslims living in Western countries. At its heart are symbols and icons which are central to the struggle for the Islamic world's soul. The hijab is one of the most contentious symbols in the Muslim world.
Many Muslims believe wearing the hijab is obligatory. They cite Qur'anic verses which state women must dress modestly, though some scholars question whether this actually means covering up. For many the hijab has become so politicised that it has almost become impossible to discuss rationally, and without fear of being labeled a kafir, or unbeliever. Testimony to this was the manner in which government officials quickly distanced themselves from Farouk, asserting the right of Egyptian women to wear what they want, within the realms of decency.
Whereas the 1920s and 1930s saw the number of urban women wearing the hijab decline, the 1970s and 1980s marked its return. Moreover, increasing numbers of women have taken to wearing the abaya, the black cloak and face veil as worn in the more conservative Gulf countries (and a far cry from some of the bikini-clad women that