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ARTS AND CULTURE

Memories of Beograd

  • 12 June 2006

Of bulky ramparts, lit up, commanding a Danube in flood; Of communist concrete dirty and drab; Of boulevards spacious and rubbished streets; Of luxuriant marble and metalled glass amidst filthy beauties from an Icarus past. Of teeming bus stations and trolleys grunting humphing hot from distant eras packed with old Australians eking out their welfare checks, dinar by dinar; Of lawnmower Yugos scooting round sleek Mercedes; Of an empty airport graveyarding remnants of heroic fighters glorying in American bits and pieces, trophies from a war of lost pride. Of scungy hotels with threadbare carpets reeking of smoke; Of veal with a view and paprika peppers with cream cheese - drinking M beers, cherry yoghurts and raspberry frappes so fresh you can taste this morning's market. Of toothless toilet minders in stinking holes; Of wrinkled medieval peasants blackscarfed carting their vegetables; Of Albanian beggars clutching babies to the breast; Of longlegged Nike lads cool in their sweats, their swarthy uncles oozing a well-groomed masculinity: burnished stubble and impeccable hair. Of an unreadable Cyrillic script distancing one empire, drawing another - named for her evangelist whose hope is history archived with Roman relics, museumed for the tourist trade. Of a National Theatre young and alive producing classics, searching to make sense, reinventing, wondering who and where we are; Of borders in fertile fields so new even the guards use builders' huts; Of war graves in no man's land so no man owns; Or is it so both own, and watch, and neither will dare dig up pretending others have never tilled this soil which longs for a settled future and tries to forget its past. April 2006 Click here to download a Windows Media file of Adrian Lane reading this poem (approx. 4.8 MB) Text and audio copyright © Adrian Lane 2006